Chemical Peels: Fact vs. Fiction, Part I

by Skincare-news.com team

1. Fact – Always get a skin consultation before receiving any type of aggressive treatment on your face. Without an in-depth analysis of your skin type, it’s likely that you will schedule the incorrect chemical peel for your skin.

First, ask yourself – why do I need a peel? What is my skin type? How can a peel benefit my skin? It’s difficult to determine all of these things on your own, so consult a professional. Dermatologists, plastic surgeons, licensed estheticians or registered nurses can perform chemical peels. Remember, there is always a risk when trying something new on your skin. When going to a day spa, there should be a waiver or peel consent form to sign prior to your peel.


This protects you and your day spa. Even if you get a peel at a medical spa or in your doctor’s office, you are still at risk. Make sure you inform the professional of any medications and skin care products you’re currently using. Products with retinol, for example, may counteract the effectiveness of the peel and disrupt the healing process. Always ask plenty of questions about new treatments and new products. The more you know and understand, the better.

Before you consult with a professional about a chemical peel, make sure he/she is well-qualified. Here are some tips from Consumer Guide to Plastic Surgery:

1 Check educational and training background, credentials and experience.

2 It’s important to know how often he/she has performed the procedure. Also ask to see before and after pictures of patients with chemical peels.

3 Know exactly what you’re getting. Become an expert on your chemical peel: What kind of peel is it? The strength? How many treatments will you need? Pros and cons? Potential complications?

4 Ask the specialist for a complete list of instructions for before and after treatment. Also ask what type of support is offered.

2. Fiction – Chemical peels are good for all skin types. Not necessarily. If you have severely dry skin or hyper- sensitive skin, a chemical peel isn’t the best treatment for you. It’s tough enough finding the most gentle treatments and skin products for these skin types, and peel treatments will most likely exacerbate your symptoms (like flaky, itchy and red skin). On the other hand, acneic skin and acne scars can be softened with chemical peels. Not only do the acids kill active blemishes on the surface, but they also help prevent more blemishes from forming. Skin has many layers and dead skin needs to be exfoliated. Chemical peels rush this process and new skin is always fresher, cleaner and healthier.

3. Fact – Chemical peels are effective for treating severe acne. There are many ways to treat severe acne and acne scarring, but remember acne has four grades of its own, plus hormonal and genetic acne. Women also experience more cases of acne during menopause. A person with grade 1 acne has minor blemishes, milia and blackheads. At the other end of the spectrum, people with grade 4 acne usually have severe inflammation, and the cysts (blemishes) are deeper. People with severe cases of acne may need Accutane and should consult a dermatologist. The other grades of acne can be treated with such chemical peels as Jessner’s or Sal Ex peel. These treatments are usually done every two weeks. Your esthetician may also include a facial between your peels. People who have severe acne and want to see an esthetician instead of a doctor will need to pay close attention to what needs to be done at home, since the treatments have a slower effect. Regardless of whom you see, home care after a chemical peel is very important, especially if treating severe acne and acne scarring.

4. Fiction – There’s just one kind of chemical peel. Absolutely not! There are actually many types with various strengths and costs – from $75 to $600 or more! Each is highly effective in its own way.

Here are the most common:

• Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) – Derived from milk and fruit sugars. The most common are lactic (milk) and glycolic (sugar). These are the most effective and have a range of concentrations. Ask your expert about what each one can do for your skin.

• Jessner’s Peel – Made from salicylic acid, lactic and resorcinol. Very effective for treating hyper-pigmentation, sunspots and acne scars.

• Sal Ex 20% – Less aggressive than a Jessner’s, but very effective for cell rejuvenation and mitigating free radicals.

• Oceanix Peel – A marine-based peel. This peel is like having 10 microdermabrasion treatments in one session. People with cystic acne, pigmentation and visible acne scars will love this peel. But it’s very expensive as the cost compares to the price of gold! – really.

• Green Herbal Peel – Uses natural herbal and plant-based ingredients to exfoliate, smooth and treat. This is a natural alternative to chemical peels and has been highly effective since widespread use began about five years ago.

5. Fact – Always use pre-skin care products for at least two weeks before getting a chemical peel. Most pre-care products are designed to thin out the skin’s surface, allowing the peel to penetrate deeper. Your skin will need to get used to the concentrated acids that will be applied. There are several types of chemical peels, which carry a different percentage of acids used in each product. Home care products that carry the same type of ingredients, with a much lesser concentration of acids will always be available to you. For example, if you are getting ready to do 30% Lactic Peel treatment on your skin, purchase a cleanser or a skin accelerator with lactic acid in it, and use it for about two weeks before you start the treatment. Your skin will be better adapted to the acid in the treatment. With introducing new products to your skin, you may also have to stop using some. Consult with your skin care specialist for more details.

Leave a Reply