Tips and Tricks for Ethnic Skin Types
For anyone with ethnic skin who has been frustrated that basic products just aren’t working, dermatologists are finding that ethnicity plays a crucial role in skincare.
In a series of articles on Discovery Health, Tamar Nordenberg examines the myths behind ethnic skincare and offers tips and tricks.
A very common myth is that individuals with darker skin aren’t at risk for skin cancer, which is a dangerous misconception. Think of ethnic skin as providing a natural sun block - somewhere between SPF 4-10 - according to the article. This means that those with ethnic skin are still vulnerable sun damage and skin cancer, so it’s important not to confuse sun protection with sun immunity.
Secondly, while ethnic skin is more alike than different, it certainly isn’t uniform. Some people falsely believe that darker skin tends to be oilier, but in truth, there’s just as much variation across the spectrum of individuals as there is for those with light skin.
And just like those with light skin, there are both positives and negatives associated with having darker skin. While the pigment melanin that creates a darker complexion means sun protection and younger looking skin, it can also lead to scarring and discolored patches. Even minor damage in the form of acne, scratches, burns or skin injuries can lead to excess melanin production, resulting in patches or raised scars that are either darker or lighter than the rest of the skin. Without proper care these scars can be long lasting.
Discovery Health offers the following suggestions for ethnic skin types; however, these tips aren’t meant to replace the advice of a dermatologist.
Cleanse daily or twice daily, depending on whether your skin is dry or oily. Avoid abrasive cleansers, puffs or loofahs.
Sunscreen of at least SPF 15 is recommended for all types of ethnic skin. Beyond antiaging benefits and protection against skin cancer, using sunscreen on a daily basis acts as a protective shield for those with dark-spot discolorations. The sun will only make these spots worse, so don’t leave the house without your sunscreen!
Makeup should be carefully chosen after looking at your natural skin tone; ethnic skin can be tricky to match, so experiment with testers on your face, not your hand or arm, to ensure you’re choosing the right shade. Plus, play up your dramatic features rather than undermining them. For example, darker-skinned Hispanic women should choose soft pinks and mauves when it comes to eyeliners, but avoid browns and burgundies. Similarly, a brown-black mascara will soften the look of dark eyes.
Moisturize with a product that won’t over-dry or clog pores. It’s best to avoid products with vitamin A or retinol as they can by damaging and dry out the skin.
Choose products meant for sensitive skin, especially if you tend to be on the drier side. Harsh ingredients like benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid should be used sparingly, as they can change the melanin pigmentation and lead to blotchy skin. Think twice before trying that miracle acne treatment recommended to you by your best friend of Irish or German descent! Scented products are also bad for fragile skin cells, even if they’re considered to be herbal or natural formulas.
Consult a Dermatologist before attempting to treat even minor skin complaints like acne. Scarring is a major concern for ethnic skin, and it’s important to receive professional advice before you cause further damage. Also, if you’re looking into any type of prescription therapy or cosmetic surgery, seek a professional who is experienced with ethnic skin.